Blitz, recession and industrial decline have threatened the very existence of the city at the very heart of England. But the ancient town with proud Saxon roots refuses to surrender, repeatedly reinventing itself with energy, determination and creativity.
The one-time Medieval treasure and hive of industry, home to one of the tallest and most beautiful cathedrals in the land, was practically obliterated by the Luftwaffe on a single night in 1940 in a bombing raid of unprecedented ferocity designed to wipe it off the map.
Instead, it rose, phoenix like, from the ashes as a pioneering example of post-war optimism.
Its new cathedral, standing alongside the striking ruins of its predecessor, is a vibrant showcase of the best of 20th century art. It led the way as Britain’s motor city and as the birthplace of a dynamic musical scene drawing on the heritage of its diverse communities – 2 Tone, fusing rock, punk, ska and reggae.
Battered by years of decline, Coventry is rising again. Regeneration projects are breathing new life into its streets and putting a new spring in its step.
There is an exhilarating confidence about the place. In the shadow of Coventry’s iconic three spires, exciting new developments tell the story of a city still on the move – a place which treasures the evocative remnants of its historic past while embracing a spirit of unsentimental transformation.
The result is a truly unique place which is both fascinating and fun to visit – whether for the first time or to reacquaint yourself with a city which will almost certainly have changed since your last trip.
Nowhere embodies the phoenix city’s renewed sense of pride and optimism more than the newly opened Hotel Indigo Coventry.
The Hotel Indigo, Coventry
The boutique bolthole is a striking piece of postmodern architecture at the heart of the city’s Friargate regeneration project, linking the £82 million-revamped railway station with a new fountain-filled public square on the edge of the shopping precinct – itself destined for a much-needed major transformation.
Growing up in the absolute dead centre of the Midlands, I knew ‘Cov’, and have seen her at her best and worst. It had been a long time since I’d graced Lady Godiva’s hometown, however, and I was curious to see how the place had changed. Just as importantly, I was curious as to whether it was still a great place for a lively night out.
I found a willing accomplice in my friend Luke – a native and life long resident of Oxford who had somehow managed to resist the charms of Britain’s Detroit, never having visited. And after a 50-minute trundle through the Oxfordshire and Warwickshire countryside we hopped off a train and emerged beneath blue skies in the uncharacteristically sun-kissed West Midlands.
The Hotel Indigo sits among trees and gardens just a few minutes’ walk from the station. And Coventry being a compact kind of place, it doesn’t take much longer to wander from there beyond into the heart of the city.
Stylish and sleek, the Indigo has a sense of fun and a respect for its home city bordering on reverence.
The minimalist reception area is home to a gleaming sports car. And not just any sports car – a re-styled version of a classic Austin Healey 100 built by Coventry manufacturer Caton.
Further nods to the city’s vehicular past come in the shape of a penny farthing bicycle on the wall and shelves full of artifacts reflecting local industry – from a vintage bike light to a trilby hat and antique sewing machine.
High ceilings and exposed ducts give way to a hip cocktail bar. On the wall a gleaming self service wine cabinet dispenses good vintages by the glass, while beyond is an elegantly contemporary restaurant – of which more later.
The minimal theme continues in the generously-proportioned rooms, with deliciously comfortable beds, a mini bar of complimentary soft drinks, 40” freeview-equipped TV, and a satisfyingly spacious, and very powerful, shower.
In a lovely touch, a welcome card was propped against a packet containing a local delicacy of which I had previously been oblivious: Coventry God Cakes. The triangular puff pastries, reminiscent of samosas, are filled with sweet mincemeat and are quite delicious. Traditionally given by godparents to their godchildren, the shape is said to represent the Holy Trinity.
They may well also symbolise the city’s defining feature: the trio of graceful spires which still grace its skyline – beacons of continuity among a constantly changing cityscape.
Considering the severity of the bombing, a surprising scattering of gems remain from its illustrious past. Most are dotted around the remains of the cathedral while others sit beside shops and bars out towards the hip hangout of FarGo Village with its vinyl and vintage shops. The most remarkable assemblage is on Spon Street, to which many Tudor and Elizabethan beauties were moved and reconstructed after the war. It’s a tantalising yet melancholy reminder of the beautiful city which was all but wiped out on November 14, 1940.
The loftiest of the three spires crowns Coventry’s standout attraction, its old and new cathedrals.
The charred remains of the historic cathedral of St Michael form a skeletal shell open to the sky. Carved sandstone walls stand scorched and jagged, punctuated by gothic windows robbed of their stained glass.
The words ‘Father Forgive’ are inscribed on the sanctuary wall behind a rough cross of charred timbers, representing those placed there after the blitz. Another cross was fashioned from three medieval nails.
It’s all strangely serene – a lofty contemplative space dotted with sculpture dedicated to peace and reconciliation. A set of steps sweep down to the new cathedral – one of the finest postwar buildings in the country.
Massive, graceful and flooded with light, Basil Spence’s modernist masterpiece, opened in 1962, is a powerful space – both overpowering and intimate.
It is also a showcase of some of the best 1950s and 60s art. Avant-garde stained glass, including a towering baptistry wall of 195 panels by John Piper, bathe the uncluttered cathedral in colour.
The front of the building is graced by Jacob Epstein’s dynamic bronze figure of St Michael clutching his spear standing over a crestfallen devil – a triumph of good over evil.
The overwhelming experience is one of serenity and optimism. Even the hardest of hearts would fail to leave unmoved.
We reflected on what we had seen over a pair of pints in one of the city’s oldest pubs, the black and white Golden Cross. Built in 1583 and a boozer since 1661, it is a riot of Elizabethan timbers and private corners with extraordinarily friendly bar staff and well-priced ale.
Then we followed the other two spires back to our hotel where we settled down for dinner.
Cogs Restaurant runs with the the hotel’s contemporary theme – bright, uncluttered and spacious while feeling comfortable and welcoming.
Continuing the Hotel Indigo’s championing of its home city, the menu majors on Warwickshire producers. The staff were endearingly friendly and cheerful. While still new, there was sense of community and fun.
And the food was great too. On a recommendation, I started with an imaginative dish of confit venison & free range pork ravioli. It came studded with sweet cured bacon crumbs and bathed in a light broth, poured from a little jug at the table.
It was surprisingly delicate, the rich game balanced by the sweetness of the cured bacon, The ravioli was wrapped in the lightest pasta made juicy by the fine broth.
Luke, meanwhile, had his head turned by a whole baked Camembert. It was a bold choice and I surmised he needed some help, selflessly weighing in by mopping up some of the comforting, creamy molten goo with hunks of crusty bread. Deeply satisfying.
We followed up with 8oz rib-eye steaks – 21 day-aged and cooked medium rare. They were perfect: expertly seared and caramelised while juicy and tender within. A whisky and peppercorn sauce was rich and tangy with a good little kick which cut through all that meatiness.
They came with tasty garlic mushrooms, a few chunky hand-cut chips and vine cherry tomatoes for some welcome sweetness. It was fabulous, but we were beat. Pud was out of the question, though a brace of double espressos propelled us out of our chairs and into the Coventry night.
Swerving the big name city centre chain bars, we stumbled upon The Windmill – a half-timbered gem of a tavern purporting to be the city’s oldest, and where cheery punters sang along to hits from the 70s and 80s. Tunes by the likes of Soft Cell, Queen and ELO had the locals on their feet, but it was the unmistakable groove of 2 Tone that really got the place bouncing.
“This town, is coming like a ghost town,” sang The Specials at the start of the 80s, but the Coventry of today is bursting with life and with a spring in its step – proud of its creative past while charging headfirst into an exciting future.
THE DETAILS
- Hotel Indigo Coventry, Friargate, Coventry, CV1 2GN
- Room rates from £103
- For more information, see coventry.hotelindigo.com
- The hotel is situated next to Coventry railway station, a short walk from the city’s cultural attractions including Coventry Cathedral, Coventry Transport Museum and the Herbert Museum and Art Gallery
- Car parking: Parking is available at the railway station car park for just £8 when validated at check-in