I’ll be honest – I have rarely met anyone who enjoys wearing school uniform. Too-warm blazers, uncomfortable shoes, and striped ties are wardrobe staples of many UK pupils. Bonus points if the ties combine 1) stripes in clashing colours and 2) the school’s crest.
The transition from school to university marks a new age of independence and, as such, you might reasonably expect an end to uniforms. Yet, with each year’s Matriculation, Oxford is flooded with new students dressed head-to-toe in black and white sub fusc. Matriculation, exam season, graduation: these are all events where an “Oxford University Uniform” becomes particularly visible. Indeed, sub fusc is an “Oxford Uniform” which is enforced on an institutional level. Graduating from my bachelor’s degree in July, I even watched an official present one of my peers with a “complimentary pair of tights” so her sub fusc would comply with university regulations. Barely half an hour earlier, I had seen a different official worrying that the blue of another peer’s suit was “too light” for sub fusc regulations. Sub fusc and school uniform are not so different, it would seem.
But sub fusc isn’t the only “Oxford Uniform” you’ll spot in the city’s cobbled streets and lecture halls. While Oxford’s fashion scene is eclectic, there are certain trends which emerge time and again. To illustrate my point, let’s set off on a day around Oxford and try to spot the unofficial “Oxford Uniforms” we can see along our way, along with my very subjective ranking of them…
9am: Heading into the city centre (feat. the college puffer)
The college puffer is by far the most common Oxford fashion staple. At this time of year it is impossible to walk down any street in central Oxford without crossing paths with at least a couple of people wearing one. An instant identifier of the college someone goes to, as well as their initials, it functions as an immediate tag of belonging. The line between school uniform and Oxford fashion completely disappears, and yet the feeling associated with college puffers is overwhelmingly positive. Why do we wear them? A sense of fellowship with other Oxford students? College pride? Or, on a purely aesthetic level, love for the college crest? Maybe a mixture of all three, not to mention simple practicality: it’s a warm coat with several pockets.
Rating: 10/10 (I love my college puffer, even if it’s slightly falling apart after four years of use).
10am: Lectures (feat. the brightly patterned jumper)
Should you be taking meticulous notes on the lecturer’s detailed explanation of deconstruction, or should you instead be admiring the lecture hall’s knitwear extravaganza in front of you? I know what I’d prefer. Oxford’s jumper game has always been strong, but this autumn’s lineup of bright colours and eclectic patterns has been particularly impressive. Failing that, the blue and white striped jumper which has started appearing everywhere. The shirt collar should, of course, also be visible above the jumper.
Rating: 10/10 (Very solid. Have yet to see anyone fail to pull off this combination).
11am: Library trip #1 (feat. the tote bag)
The tote bag is a must-have accessory: whether for groceries, books, or – for the bravest souls – laptops. I’m not sure which marketing genius decided to make Penguin Books tote bags but I see them everywhere. The Covered Market tote also deserves a mention, and seems to spread its influence far beyond Oxford (I saw one multiple times in the U-Bahn on my year abroad in Vienna and felt vaguely haunted).
Rating: 7/10 (Practical, without being particularly interesting).
1pm: Lunch in hall (feat. the woollen coat)
With autumn in full swing, maybe it’s not that surprising that people have turned to warmer coats. The long woollen coat is now almost as common as the college puffer – especially combined with a short scarf. Fashion is all about contrast, and this duo certainly delivers. My only criticism is that it’s possibly too humanities-core (if such a thing exists). Put this on and you’re one cigarette away from explaining how Roland Barthes is criminally misunderstood.
Rating: 9/10 (Effortlessly stylish, with the added bonus that it keeps your legs warm).
2pm: Library trip #2 (feat. cowboy boots)
Even if you cycle, Oxford is a city which demands a lot of walking, and sturdy cowboy-style boots have recently stepped up to challenge Doc Martens’ status as the go-to boot for long-walks. Taylor Swift and Beyoncé both have a large role to play in the popularity of this item, and for that we thank them.
Rating: 6/10 (Not my thing, but not offensive to the eye either).
6.15pm: Evensong (feat. choir robes)
Unlike Oxford’s other wardrobe staples, the choir robe exists in a peculiar limbo. It has been shuffling back and forth between the tiny storage cupboard and college chapel since at least the 1980s, released only for its annual pilgrimage to the dry cleaners. Do choir robes make you look vaguely ridiculous? Yes. But do they make you feel solemn, dramatic and primed for belting out “I was glad”? Also yes.
Rating: 5/10 (Not the most practical or convenient – especially when dashing to the toilet five minutes before evensong – but points for gravitas).
7pm: Brief after-dinner walk (feat. a sighting of the scholar’s gown)
Swishy, dramatic, keeps your arms warm whilst simultaneously proclaiming your status as an academic weapon while going to formal hall. Black tie optional but advisable.
Rating: 8/10 (Unrivalled in terms of adding drama and flounce to your walk. 10/10 if worn whilst riding a VOI, for sheer entertainment value).
9pm: Library trip #3 (feat. the essay-crisis hoodie)
Comfortable and practical. A solid choice for cranking out the final paragraph of your essay at lightning speed, wishing you had paid slightly more attention to that 10am lecture on deconstruction after all…
Rating: 6/10 (A neutral rating for a neutral item).
10pm: Emergency cereal trip to Tesco (feat. the rowing blazer)
As a general rule, I’m all for sports stash. The combination of gothic writing and society logo makes for a solid piece of kit. But the rowing blazer? That might just be the exception. With bold matching trim around the lapels, pockets and cuffs, it’s undeniably a look that stands out, but not one which I particularly enjoy.
Rating: 3/10 (Pockets are extremely useful things, so one point for each. Docked to 1/10 if worn on a crewdate).
So, is there an unofficial “Oxford Uniform”? Yes and no. Spend a day here and you’ll spot certain fashion constants, but, like Oxford itself, the fashion scene is multifaceted and eccentric in the best possible way. Love them or hate them, Oxford’s fashion trends have something for everyone!