Founded in the eighth century, Oxford is an enchanting city of towering spires, renowned for its intriguing history, university, and colleges reflecting hues of gold beside the sedate river. The city was once walled and served as the border between the warring Vikings and Saxons, and during the English Civil War it acted as King Charles I’s capital whilst Oliver Cromwell and the Parliamentarians held sway over London. Located on the convergence of the rivers Cherwell and Thames, Oxford attracts hordes of visitors from all over the world and there is much to explore.
On arrival, I checked into The Store, a rather lovely hotel situated on Broad Street, in the historic Boswells department store, which was once located on Cornmarket Street and began trading in 1738. The current property has retained many period features, whilst reflecting modern, charming touches, which are sympathetic to its history.
After a swift and efficient check-in my luggage was whisked away and I was escorted to the Balliol College Suite measuring 39 square metres. Wrapped around the corner of the property and on the first floor, features include dual aspect windows, panelled walls, parquet flooring and high ceilings emphasising the space and light. I was delighted to discover that the large bathroom featured a rainfall shower, a free-standing bathtub and a generous selection of bath and body products, which I intended to make full use of.
After relaxing on the plump sofa and sipping on a piping hot cup of Nespresso espresso, I had a spring in my step and I was ready to venture outside, so headed post-haste for the Ashmolean Museum, a short stroll away on Beaumont Street.
Founded in 1683, Britain’s oldest museum is a must for art lovers and houses one of the most impressive collections of art and archaeology in the United Kingdom. Highlights include the world’s largest display of exquisite Raphael drawings, a fascinating collection of pre-Dynastic Egyptian material, Anglo-Saxon collections and exhibits of modern Chinese art.
I must confess that I should have kept an eye on the time as I spent some hours mesmerised by an enormous array of fabulous pieces including the magnificent Alfred Jewel, an Anglo-Saxon work made of quartz and glittering gold. Discovered in 1693 it dates back to the ninth century, during the reign of Alfred the Great. Another piece of huge interest is the stunning violin, the Messiah Salabue Stradivarius, made by Antonio Stradivari and dated 1716. I also stood transfixed as I gazed upon an Arab ceremonial gown owned by Lawrence of Arabia, one of my heroes.
A visit to Britain’s first public art collection at the Christ Church Picture Gallery is also absolutely essential and is a short walk from the Ashmolean Museum. The collection, most of which was bequeathed by John Guise in 1765, includes spectacular paintings by Van Dyck, Tintoretto, Carracci, Frans Hals, Filippino Lippi and drawings by Leonardo, Michelangelo and Rubens. The collection of 18th century English glass is impressive and the Russian icons and old master prints are quite simply breath-taking.
With my intense scrutiny of the arts cut short as evening approached, I headed out in search of a dining experience and came upon The Ivy Oxford, located on the High Street. The main restaurant features Art Deco details, marble floors and comfy banquettes. I settled in immediately and ordered the Ivy’s classic shepherd’s pie accompanied by a glass of Cabernet Franc, which were served with aplomb and just the ticket. I could not resist ordering the strawberry and elderflower trifle and I did not feel the least bit guilty at the time, but afterwards I took a very brisk short walk back to my hotel!
Up with the larks I ventured outside, bound for the Bodleian Libraries within the University of Oxford. Many of our prime ministers, Nobel laureates and high profile celebrities including Oscar Wilde, JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis were members of Oxford’s Bodleian Library. I strolled around the 17th-century quad taking in the splendour of the architecture and reflected on the history of my surroundings. Founded in 1602 by Sir Thomas Bodley, the Bodleian Library is one of the oldest in Europe and the university’s main research library with millions of printed items.
As I emerged from the quad I stood outside the splendid Palladian style Radcliffe Camera, designed by James Gibbs and completed in 1749. Alas, the building is not open to the public but, of course, many a visitor will pause outside to admire its imposing exterior. Close by, I spotted another small gathering of people taking photographs of the Bridge of Sighs. Completed in 1914, it is a skyway linking two sections of Hertford College.
Another of Oxford’s treasures is only a short walk away and I hurried along to Oxford’s Botanic Garden, which was founded in 1621. Crammed with more than five thousand plants, the garden’s main focus is for research. Beside the River Cherwell, this haven is the perfect spot to relax.
As my visit to Oxford was coming to an end I had one more treat in store and hopped into a taxi for the short trip to the Cherwell Boathouse Restaurant located by the river Cherwell opposite the biggest and most popular punt station. The location is exceptional, a tranquil haven surrounded by beautiful scenery. I ordered the succulent Chana Masala, followed by the Pimm’s jelly and a chilled glass of Chardonnay and as I watched people embarking onto the punts I held my glass aloft in admiration for Oxford, the city of dreaming spires.
Factbox
Top tip – Blenheim Palace, the birthplace of Winston Churchill, is only a short drive from Oxford city centre. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the UK’s grandest stately homes, it was completed in 1722 and reflects the magnificent Baroque style. For more information visit blenheimpalace.com
Images, excluding accommodation and main image, courtesy of Visit Britain.
For more information on the featured accommodation visit thestoreoxford.com.